20 signs your mechanic doesn’t know what he is talking about

20-signs-your-mechanic-doesnt-know-what-he-is-talking-about

We’ve all been in this situation before… your car begins smoking or making noises you only thought were possible when small animals die, and now you’re stuck trying to find a decent shop. You’ve heard all the horror stories, you’ve seen the outrageous amounts dealerships charge, so you’re looking for a nice local shop where you won’t get taken for a ride. One problem…most of the local shops are run by gang members or men so old you’re pretty sure they have no idea how to operate Microsoft Paint, let alone try to delve into the computer issues on today’s vehicles. Here we have assembled a list of 20 easy-to-spot signs that you may be better off having your 3 year-old attempt a fix than have work done at such a shop.

1. Your friends have had bad experiences at the shop. Okay so this may seem like a no-brainer, but in all seriousness when you need to choose a shop for work on your car, ask your friends. Let their experiences help you in finding a good quality place and a good price.

2. The shop requires you to pay before the work is done. Most reputable shops will give you an estimate, perform the work, and then charge you after you’re sure the problem is fixed. This is the only reasonable business practice that makes sense, because having you pay before you can be sure the problem will actually be fixed just screams shadiness.

3. The mechanic is not certified by any national association. While certification certainly does not ensure good work and there are good mechanics who don’t bother with these things, as a general rule of thumb, shops which have mechanics certified by national organisations such as the MTAA (Motor Trade Association of Australia) generally provide a better level of service.

4. The parking lot is full of cars that don’t appear capable of movement. This may also seem like a dead giveaway, but many people in the search to save money will end up at a place like this. The general appearance of the shop, including the cars outside, can give you good insight into the quality of the service performed. Do you want your vehicle lined up among the sea of dead vehicles? I think not.

5. The mechanic attempts diagnosis based upon your broad description. Most of the time one symptom can have a wide variety of underlying causes. While listing a variety of possibilities is not a bad thing, a mechanic who seems to know exactly what is wrong based upon your simple description probably has no idea what is going on and is just guessing at this point. Without a thorough diagnosis, it can be very difficult to pinpoint exactly what is wrong.

6. The shop has lots of bad reviews online. In today’s internet age, it is very easy to research a place of business and find reviews by other customers. A few minutes spent online at a search engine could save you time, money, and hassle later on.

7. The mechanic does not appear to have specific knowledge of your make and model. Some repair shops specialize in certain brands, while others attempt to do everything. Either way, they hopefully see a large volume of customers, and because of this should have some knowledge of your car’s specifics without needing a manual or computer first. Simple things like a knowledge of engine size, which wheels drive the car, and approximate model year, among many others, can let you know that this mechanic has worked on cars like yours before and will most likely do a better job.dishonestmechanic1

8. No estimate of time for repair. Shops which cannot provide an estimate of the time it will take to fix your car most likely have not worked on a car like yours before or simply are backed up and should be avoided.

9. Time for repair seems unnecessarily long. If the shop has quoted you a time for your repair which seems incredibly long, call around to other shops first and ask how long it would take them. If the repair estimate is unreasonable, finding another shop is a great idea, as the one you are at most likely has no clue what they are doing.

10. The shop is very new or has very little history in the area. While every shop needs customers to build up a history, newly opened shops may not be the best place to find good quality or the best deal. Shops that have been in the community a long time have to be doing a good job, otherwise they would have gone out of business a long time ago.

11. The mechanic tries to suggest a myriad of other services for you at the time of your repair. Preventative maintenance may be the best way to avoid long-term hassle, but many times these offers of additional service (for a fee) are unwarranted and just attempts to get more of your money. Read your owner’s manual and know the timetable for services so that you can avoid being suckered in by a shop that is only out for your pocketbook. Shops that try to get you to purchase all sorts of extra services are not looking out for your best interests, and this applies to the quality of their repairs as well.

12. The mechanic suggests fixes which don’t add up. Even though the average consumer does not have an extensive working knowledge of an entire automobile, some fixes just don’t make sense. Use your judgment and common sense to question the mechanic if something seems out of place. For example, if you were having air conditioning issues and the mechanic suggests an exhaust problem, you may want to pack up and leave. Once again, use the internet as a resource to research possible problems before going to the mechanic so that you can be at least educated enough to spot someone trying to pull one over on you.

13. The shop tells you you need to fix more things than you came in for, without a thorough explanation. While diagnosing one problem it is not uncommon to come across one or more secondary problems. For example, you need your brakes fixed but they suggest new tires, suspension fixes, or steering box problems. While it is very possible that while doing one job the shop may come across other things that need work, they should be able to explain this all to you in a manner you understand.

14. Lack of sufficient explanations. Following from #13, ANY instance at a shop where they suggest a repair but cannot thoroughly explain not only the reasoning but the procedure behind it should be a red flag. If a list of problems suddenly jumps up from their “master technician”, ask them which ones are the most important and which could hold off. In most instances, if your car has been running fine for quite a while, it is unlikely that there are multiple serious failures lurking underneath, and the shop should be able to explain if that is the case.

15. The mechanic gives you a line like “good thing you brought this in, the car probably would not have lasted another 50 miles.” Man, what are the chances that you happened to bring your car in at just the right time, to just the right shop! Lucky you! WRONG. Chances are, if you have been driving your car around for a little while with a warning light on or a noise, it was not very close to total failure. Shops which say things like this are just trying to make you feel lucky for their services and will undoubtedly overcharge you for their services.

16. The mechanic suggests one fix first, then when that doesn’t work, claims they “know” what has to be wrong this time. Sometimes shops have a few go-to fixes for things (alternator + battery for electrical problems, for example) and will jump to these first, then look for other problems later. If a shop charges you for a fix but it doesn’t actually fix the problem, they should be willing to refund at least some of your money, if not all, because after all, you have trusted them with fixing the problem, not playing trial-and error games with your money.

17. Insisting they are the best in town without awards or recognition from the community to back it up. Most any business will try to tell you that they are the best for the job, but look for proof. If a shop has been in the area for a while, look for local recognition (newspapers, chamber of commerce, etc.) to back it up. Without proof these claims might as well be thrown out as garbage.

18. The shop installs a new part, it fixes the problem but then fails soon after. There are cases of new pieces being defective from the factory, but it is also possible that the shop installed the part wrong and this caused it to fail. In general, if the shop is not willing to replace the part free of charge, they should be avoided in the future.

19. The mechanic won’t wait on you to call around to other shops or take the car other places to get estimates. Often times, if the repair is a major one you might want to call several places and get estimates to make sure you are getting a good deal. If the shop you are at tells you you can’t leave your car there for a few hours while you call around, they’re not worth your business.

20. The mechanic cannot understand your explanation of the problem and asks you multiple times to repeat or rephrase. Shops which have knowledgeable staff and provide good service should be able to understand the problem as told by a common person. You might not use the same technical terms, but if they cannot understand your explanation, there’s a good chance they won’t find the right problem. If you can’t explain it in words, ask them to come look at the car or take a short ride with you, if they want your business and are really interested in providing you with the best service, they will agree.

 

The one thing your car dealer doesn’t want you to know

You may think you have to have your car seerviced at the dealer in order to maintain your warranty. Contrary to popular belief, this information is incorrect.

You don’t have to take your brand new car back to your dealer to maintain your new vehicle warranty

Dealer vs non-dealer servicing explained:

The Competition and Consumer Act 2010 prevents the practise of exclusive dealing by attaching conditions to the sale of goods that restrict the buyer’s freedom of choice to deal with whom or in what they choose.

Essentially this means that a vehicle manufacturer cannot specify that you must have your car serviced by a particular dealer or group of dealers as part of the warranty conditions.

Nor can a manufacturer void a warranty simply because a vehicle owner has chosen to have a vehicle serviced outside the dealer network.

Will My Car Pass A Roadworthy Inspection?

Will My Car Pass a Roadworthy ?

To help you have a better understanding of the requirements of passing a roadworthy test – we have provided this short list of just some of the standards your vehicle must have in order to be provided a Roadworthy Certificate.

The only way to know for sure that your car will pass a roadworthy test is to have a roadworthy inspection performed by an authorised inspection station – Call Dan’s Elite Auto today to book a fast and honest Roadworthy troadworthy_certificate_checklistest for your car !

Remember : This information is by no means an complete list of requirements, nor does it explain in full exactly what is needed to past a roadworthy test – but will help give you an idea of problems which could be found during a roadworthy inspection, and prepare you for any costs involved in passing an RWC test

Wheel and Tyre Roadworthy test requirements >>
Wheels, rims and tyres must be free of cracks or any other damage that could cause failure of the tyre, wheel or rim.
The wheel/rim must not be dented, buckled or out of balance.
You cannot have a “temporary use” spare tyre fitted as a road wheel.
If you have spoke wheels, all spokes must be intact, straight, fitted and laced or tensioned correctly.
When facing in the straight ahead position -the wheels and tyres must not project beyond the width of the mudguards or contact any part of the vehicle during any combination of steering or suspension.
Wheels must be securely attached with the correct type and number of studs, nuts or both. Tyres must have a MINIMUM tread depth of 1.5mm at any point on the tread which will be in normal contact with the road (other than at tyre tread indicators) If tread wear indicators are present the tyre cannot be so worn that the indicators contact the road surface. Tyre size must be compatible with the rim size. Retreaded tyres must be must be marked with the Id of the retreader and the word “retreaded” along with any relevant markings required by the Australian standard.
Steering and Suspension Roadworthy test requirements >>

The vehicle must drive straight without wandering or pulling left or right when driving straight ahead.
All steering components must be securely and correctly mounted and free from damage or excessive wear, including dust and grease seals.
Power steering fittings should be free of oil leaks.
There must be adequate clearance between suspension components and the vehicles body.
All joints, bushes, pivots, dust and grease seals, wheel bearings and mounts must be in good condition.
Shock absorbers and struts must be securely mounted and free from leaks.

Brakes Roadworthy test requirements >>

All brake components must be functioning correctly be mounted securely and appropriately located.
All brake components must be free from visible wear, distortion or damage.
Vehicle parking and emergency brakes must be functioning correctly.
Park brakes must be capable of keeping the vehicle stationary on any grade of hill up or down.
Brake lights (warning signs) must be fitted correctly and functioning.
Car horn must be working correctly ( warning signs)
Brake systems must be free of leaks.
Brake linings must not be worn down to the wear indicators.

Seats and Seatbelts Roadworthy test requirements >>

All seats must be secure and structurally sound with no jagged edges or protrusions sticking out.
The drivers seat in particular should be free from any defect that could impede driving ability.
Seat sliders must be functioning correctly and free of any looseness.
If present head restraint must be secure and in a sound condition.
Seatbelts must be present.
Seatbelt webbing must be firmly secured and free from cuts, damage, wear, knots or fraying.
Any seatbelt component cannot be modified.

General Vehicle Roadworthy test requirements >>

Steering wheel grip must be securely fitted
All steering and control wheel knobs and pedals must function correctly and cannot be deteriorated to an extent which affects performance
Vehicles manufactured after 1 July 1988 must have a functioning speedometer calibrated in km/h
All motor vehicles must have rear vision mirror capable of providing a clear view to the rear of the vehicle.
All vehicles must be fitted with one or more effective horns or warning devices capable of producing a steady sound of constant pitch.
Fuel filler caps must be present,  secure and seal properly. Plastic emergency caps are not acceptable

Lights, Signals and Reflectors Roadworthy test requirements

Light requirements vary greatly with vehicle type, but as a general rule all vehicles must be fitted with headlamps, stop lamps (brake lights), front and rear position lamps and number plate lamp and turn signal lamps (blinkers) and they must be in reasonable working order.
All lenses or light covers must be of the correct colour, clean , free of damage and not faded.
Headlamp reflectors must be in good condition.
All lamps and lights must be securely fitted and facing correctly.

Windscreen and Windows Roadworthy test requirements >>

All glass that is necessary for the driver to see the road and other road users must be free of damage and cannot be altered to the extent that it prevent safe use of the vehicle.
Chips, scratches or cracks in the windshield to the extent that the drivers vision is impaired is not acceptable although minor wear and tear can sometimes be approved, this also applies to side windows.
Windscreens primary vision area cannot be tinted to more than 70% in vehicles made after 1971.
Tinting in the primary vision area of the windscreen must have been manufactured not via coating or tint films added after manufacture.
Windscreen wipers must be fitted correctly and working effectively.
Windscreen washer jets must be positioned correctly
Vehicle Body and Chassis Roadworthy test requirements >>

The structural components of the vehicle must be free from damage, cracks, faulty repairs or modifications, rust or any other condition which could cause structural failure or affect safety related issues.
the vehicles floor must be sound and free of any loose material, objects or tears which could be likely to impede the drivers ability to safely operate the vehicle.
All door, boot, lid, bonnet, hatch and tailgate latches and latch mechanisms need to be in correct working order.
Mudflaps are required on vehicles with a tray type body.
Bumper bars must be securely fitted and designed to eliminate any sharp corners or protrusions.
Towbars must be in good condition.